In Italian culture, Christmas Eve holds a special significance, and for those of Italian descent or Italophiles, it is synonymous with the Feast of the Fishes. However, despite its popularity in the United States, this tradition is not native to Italy. In fact, it is believed to have its roots in the history of Italian cuisine, particularly for those who choose to abstain from eating meat on Christmas Eve for religious or economic reasons. According to Fred Plotkin, a food historian and co-author of Rick Steves Eating in Italy, the Feast of the Seven Fishes that is celebrated on Christmas Eve is most likely an Italian-American creation and has been significantly elaborated upon in the United States.
With the Feast of the Fishes revolving around seafood, pairing the right wine becomes a crucial element. Scott Ades, president of Dalla Terra Winery Direct, an importer of family-owned Italian wineries, acknowledges the challenge of finding the perfect wine to complement the various types of fish and their preparations. Ades suggests that mineral- and acid-driven white wines work well with seafood and highlights Italy’s extensive range of white wines as an ideal option. As an Italian peninsula surrounded by water, Italy offers unparalleled versatility in white wine varieties.
For a starter wine, Letrari’s Zero Dosage Riserva, a bright sparkling wine from TrentoDoc, is highly recommended. Made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, this dry and crisp wine has a fresh alpine flavor. It pairs exceptionally well with lobster or white fish in a lemon cream sauce.
The northeastern region of Italy offers a variety of white wines that complement different seafood dishes. For Pinot Grigio enthusiasts, Alois Lageder’s trio of biodynamically farmed Pinot Grigios is noteworthy. The Porer, Terra Alpina, and RIFF are all produced under the Vigneti delle Dolomiti designation. The Porer, with its rich texture and savory herbal notes, pairs excellently with poached monkfish in lemon butter sauce or roasted cod. On the other hand, the Terra Alpina exhibits tropical-fruit flavors, tart green apples, and an herbal undertone, making it ideal for appetizers and shellfish, particularly clams. For a straightforward and well-balanced wine, the RIFF is the perfect choice, with its abundance of apples and pears making it a great match for appetizers and shellfish dishes.
Inama, a family winery now helmed by third-generation brothers, produces soulful whites worth sampling. Carbonare Soave Classico, made from Garganega grapes grown in volcanic soils, offers rich texture and features notes of white flowers, citrus, and bright yellow apple. It pairs beautifully with seared scallops or pasta ai fruitti di mare. Marco Felluga’s Mongris, a deeper interpretation of Pinot Grigio from Fruili, is a full-bodied wine that pairs perfectly with crab dishes. Attems, a renowned producer, presents a Sauvignon Blanc from the Collio DOC, which exhibits a rich and sharp character, making it an excellent pairing for oysters and raw seafood.
Continuing south along the Adriatic coast, Cantina Zaccagnini’s Tralcetto Pinot Grigio, a light orchard-fruit-forward style wine, pairs well with shrimp or grilled white fish. Masciarelli Maria Cvetic Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva from Abruzzo is a rich and full-bodied wine bursting with kumquat, yellow pear, and apple flavors, with a citrus tang. Piana Marina’s Torre Zambra, a yellow-fruited Trebbiano aged using different barrels, concrete tanks, and bottle fermentation, has a structured and textured character that can hold its own against robust preparations of roasted red snapper or salmon.
In the inland regions of Italy, Tuscany and Lazio, distinctive white wines add depth to the Feast of the Fishes. Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia, a powerful and intense wine with ripe, mature yellow fruits, pairs wonderfully with seafood in creamy sauces or lobster. The Benefizio Pomino Bianco Riserva, a floral and tropical-fruited Chardonnay produced by the Frescobaldi family, not only offers a delightful taste but also showcases a beautiful label that deserves a place on the table. From Lazio, Ferentano, produced by the Cotarella family, showcases 100% Roscetto grapes and displays stone and summer-melon fruit tones, white florals, and honeysuckle aromas. This wine is a perfect match for a creamy seafood risotto.
Sardinia and Sicily, the islands of Italy, also have exceptional wines that harmonize with seafood preparations. Sella & Mosca’s “La Cala” Vermentino di Sardegna is a fresh and tropical-inflected wine with flavors of tart pineapple and yellow plum. With its mouthwatering acidity, it is an ideal pairing for simple, lightly dressed or naked fish dishes. From Sicily, Mozia Grillo from Tasca D’Almerita, made from grapes grown in the Marsala lagoon, is a full-bodied wine with white-orchard fruit flavors and a briny minerality that complements seafood perfectly.
Regardless of the number of fish dishes or the tradition’s veracity, the Feast of the Fishes is ultimately about celebrating with loved ones and enjoying a festive meal together. With a wide array of Italian white wines available, from sparkling to still, and from the north to the south, finding the perfect wine pairing for your feast is an enjoyable exploration of Italy’s rich culinary and winemaking heritage.